Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 4 - Lake Akan, Marimo, Sahoro Ski Resort

"Morning call" was an hour later today - 16 December 2009. Took my first glimpse of Lake Akan (阿寒湖, Akan-ko) from the hotel room window. A sense of peace, serenity, tranquillity and calmness soon engulfed me as my eyes caught sight of the thin layers of mist, gently caressing the shores across the clam and sleepy lake. The boat piers, covered with freshly fallen silent shrouds of snow (borrowing a line from Simon & Garfunkel's "I Am A Rock"), looked like white slender fingers pointing out towards the vast expense of water. A few individuals were already down on the hotel's snow-covered side of the lake, admiring and soaking in the beauty of the scenery; capturing the breathtaking view with their cameras.

Lake Akan is of course one of the famous trio in Akan National Park. We have visited the other two, Lake Kusharo and Lake Mashu, the day before (Part 3). This beautiful crater lake is famous for its spherical algae called "marimo". Although related species of this rare algae are found in the lakes of some European countries and in some other lakes in Japan, its only here that it forms into a spherical surface that is furry, soft and smooth, reaching up to 20 to 30 centimetres in diameter over time (up to a century @ about 5 mm per year). Smaller marimo in glass bottles are a popular souvenir for Japanese as well as foreign tourists.

My niece brought two pairs home to add to her collection of a pair from a previous trip. She joked that these can form part of her family heirloom to be passed down, as her pet marimo can live up to a hundred years.

Marimo with colourful birth stones in a bottle are also sold as a mascot phone strap. There is also a character whose name "Marimokkori" is derived from "marimo" and the Japanese slang "mokkori”. Its fame comes through merchandising. What does "mokkori" means - notice the bulge on Marimokkori - go figure it out (... still can't get it? ... then point your mouse at the image on the right). So is this "crudeness" or "creativity"? Doesn't really matter, what is important is that the idea has reaped in millions of yen.
Caught a glimpse of two posters in the hotel lobby which I initially thought were that for a Japanese movie or TV drama. As it turns out they were for a 2008 Chinese romantic comedy film titled "If You Are the One" (非诚勿扰 - Fēichéng Wùrǎo), starring Shu Qi. Lake Akan was of course, among the popular sites of Hokkaido featured in this film. It became an immediate hit in China, grossing 300 million yuan (¥4.1 billion) in its first 19 days of screening and turned Hokkaido into a new tourism spot for Chinese travellers.

We left Lake Akan before 10 am and proceeded to our next and only destination for the day. This could well be the highlight of the tour for some of the youngsters in the group - a first taste of winter sports at Sahoro Resort. This is where Cub Med Sahoro is also located at.

We reached the Sahoro Resort Hotel during lunch time and had Japanese cuisine at the Yukizasa restaurant while our tour guide was busy checking us in. By the time we finished lunch she has just completed the check-in procedure. She then gathered the young ones and brought them up to the ski area. She did not bother to take her lunch first as she wanted to have the youngsters up at the slopes as early as possible. In this way they could enjoy a longer period of time at their winter activities (don't forget by 4 pm the sky would be dark and night skiing was not available). What a super tour guide; as professional as any Japanese, even though she is a Singaporean - really first class service. Meanwhile we waited for our keys to be issued. We then carried our baggage to our rooms before catching the next shuttle bus to join up with the youngsters.
When we reached the ski area we found the young ones enjoying themselves. A few were skiing while most of the others were snowboarding (or rather some of them were trying to snowboard). As it turned out the youngest in the group was the one with the most experience in this activity. Soon there were many tumbles and falls for those who were trying out this sport for the first time. But signs of enjoyment were written all over their faces. There were smiles and laughter all round after each and every crash!

Some of us older ones decided to try our hand at snow sliding and soon headed for the gentler slope allocated for this activity. I supposed it's not as challenging as snowboarding or skiing but it's still thrilling. A big thank you to the fellow tour member for giving me those "push starts". I really needed them - guess I am too heavy and cumbersome to "take off" on my own steam. It's a nice feeling to have icy air rushing against your face as you slide (or wobble in some cases) down the gentle gradient. Just like snowboarding, going downhill is fun but you will need to struggle up the slopes again for the next ride - no pain, no gain!

Somehow or rather when you are having fun time seems to pass by faster. Soon the whole ski area was engulfed in darkness, safe for a few artificially lighted areas. We boarded the shuttle for our return trip to the resort hotel. Many stories and small talks were exchanged over dinner that night. A few regrouped in someone's room to continue bonding over drinks through the night. The teenagers in my own group gathered outside at the front of the hotel to have a snow fight and tried their hands at making a snowman. The resulting man of snow did not turn out as nice as what we normally see on TV or movies. Do remember though that the snow in Hokkaido is rather fine, powdery and soft - not easy to "mould" but good for the butts and bones of those who are learning to ski or snowboard. Some who had tried skiing in other countries remembered ending up with bruises, aches and sore bottoms. My youngest, who is rather gung-ho, fell the most on the slopes that day but did not suffer a single bruise - some aches though.
Half a day for trying out winter sports is definitely not enough. The original tour we were supposed to be with features two days at a ski resort in nearby Furano but alas we got played out by the agent as mentioned earlier (Part 1). Do note that if you are picking out a winter tour ensure that it covers at least two days in ski resorts.

Well we are nearing the end of our tour. We will be heading back to Sapporo tomorrow and on the way we will be trying out snowmobiling. Enjoyed the meals provided at the resort (especially dinner) and had great fun at the slopes today. My "camera" fingers were numbed throughout most part of the day but it's worth it. Can't wait to try out the snowmobile ride ...

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 3 - Kitsune Mura Fox Farm, Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum, Lake Akan

It was the 15 December 2009 and we were heading east from Asahikawa (旭川) towards Lake Akan (湖阿寒) where we will spend the night. Our first stop, not counting the "mandatory" toilet stop, was the Hokkaido Kitsune-Mura (北海道きつね村) - Fox Farm (Village) - in the Okhotsk region of eastern Hokkaido. Uncle Joe purchased some feed which we offered to foxes in the nearby cages. These animals really have fine, soft fur. They sure looked cute but you can see the cunningness in those sly eyes of theirs. No wonder we have the idiom, "as sly (cunning) as a fox".

After some photo taking around the animals and with a torii within the grounds as backdrop we proceeded to go back into the shop which we have passed through earlier when entering into the farm area. The group spent a far longer period of time here than outside with the foxes. Why? For one, it's warmer inside the building and ... there were tons and tons of souvenirs and food stuff here - mainly associated with the fox. Many of us soon ended up clutching key chains, phone straps, T-shirts, dried cuttlefish, and etc., etc... The cash register started ringing away as if Christmas was already here. As we left the souvenir shop we noticed that our efficient coach driver was hacking away some ice that had formed near the entrance to the coach. He was worried that some of us could slip and fall while boarding the vehicle, how considerate and professional - fantastic service.

Our next stop was the Okhotsk Sea (Drift) Ice Museum (Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum - オホーツク流氷館) in Abashiri (網走). This museum with drift ice as the main theme is located on Mt Tento, adjoining the Tentozan Observatory that allows one to look out towards the Sea of Okhotsk and Lake Abashiri. On arrival we headed for the restaurant on top which has a fantastic view of the surroundings. This was where we had our lunch.

We trooped downstairs after filling our stomachs and headed towards a room that is refrigerated at around minus 18 degrees centigrade. We were told that if required we could put on overcoats that were hanging on racks outside this "Arctic" room. None of us took up the offer as we were all already wearing a few layers of winter apparels. Two charming attendants handed out a small towel to each of us as we were ushered through a door into the depths of a freezing world. We were told to twirl these towels while inside the cold chamber and see what will happen. I have seen this being done on a Taiwanese travel program on cable TV before. So I know what to expect.

The room was dimly lit but one could make out blocks of real drift ice from the Okhotsk sea (some could have drifted down from the Siberian coast), scattered around. Perched on top of some of them were stuffed animals like the red fox and seal. Surprisingly it was not as cold as I expected - must be the effectiveness of the thermal wear I have under the two other layers of thick clothing. Another reason is the absence of winds - on the outside one finds that it's the chilling winds slicing through that numbs you.

Soon we were behaving like young kids twirling the little towel we have as we moved around the room; making quite a considerable amount of noise with our laughters, comments and squeak of excitements. A few were clicking away with cameras in one hand while busy manoeuvring the towels, as if they were blades of a helicopter or airplane propellers, in the other. Don't really know how their photos turn out but watching the video that I filmed (with one hand while the other was turning like mad) makes me want to puke. As expected the towel that I was twirling around soon became as stiffed as a piece of hard cardboard.

We left the "ice laboratory" after the little "test" and proceeded to a theatre that features three super-wide-vision screens to watch a video. I decided to give this a miss as I believed that I have caught a glimpse of the show on TV before. (Just as well as I was told later that the narration was done entirely in Japanese and yes I have seen it before, it features an ice-breaking ship). I left the building to film the surrounding view with my camcorder. Wow, a real breathtaking feast for the eyes - remember we were on elevated grounds - Mt Tento (天都山) - looking towards part of the Abashiri coastline and lake. We soon boarded the coach to continue our journey towards Lake Akan but will be making two more stops.

Lake Akan (阿寒湖) is located in the western part of the Akan National Park while the larger eastern portion contains Lake Mashu (摩周湖) and Lake Kussharo (屈斜路湖).
We made a brief photo stop at Lake Kussharo as the sky was darkening. This lake was formed from a crater and with a circumference of 57 km, is Hokkaido's largest fresh water lake.

We reached Lake Mashu at about 4 pm, by which time the sky was already pitched dark. This lake is referred to as the world's most transparent lake. It's transparent emerald-colored surface changes constantly but, alas, it was too dark for us to observe this aspect of its beauty. As the coach approaches the parking lot the lights in the building beside were being turned off. They were however immediately turned on again when the staff inside realised that a coach load of souvenir hungry and bladder full tourists have arrived. Some of us headed for the toilets while others looked for the important signage besides the lake for recording, on camera, the evidence required to prove that they have indeed been to this particular tourist spot. Then it's the time for the cash registers in the souvenir shop to ring.

Many boxes of Jyagapokkuru - Pokkuru potatoes (じゃがポックル) were purchased here together with other souvenirs and food stuff by the group. This premium potato strips from "Potato Farm" is yet another of Hokkaido's famous and popular snack. It's a "must bring back to Singapore to prove that you were in Hokkaido" item like the "White Lovers (白い恋人) Chocolate" mentioned in an earlier posting (Part 2). My son refers to it as "over-priced french fries" but its rich potato taste and texture makes it more tasty and delicious than french fries. Like any other sinful snacks its very addictive but don't worry you will soon stop eating because of its price and the intense competition from other family members.

We changed into our yakuta in the hotel at Lake Akan (Hotel Gozensui - ホテル御前水) and headed for the dining area. Our tour guide gathered us for a group photo to be taken - took some time though as members were all over the hall indulging in interesting banter. The noise level was definitely much higher than when we first met for dinner at Lake Toya. Could this friendship among members of a tour group and their guide continue even after the tour, when everyone has gone back to reality and the normal routine of life?

I decided that it was too dark to see anything around the lake and opted for sleep but the others did venture out in the cold of the night and managed to get some photos taken at some of the festively lighted spots. I shall savour the beauty of Lake Akan in the morning ... zzzzzz

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 2 - Sapporo City, Asahiyama Zoo, Asahikawa

Woke up very early and noticed flurries against a dark morning sky through the hotel window, what a serene feeling - yes that's another first. Although I was in Korea last year (earlier post - "Boys Over Muju Resort") it was during the last days of winter and so did not get to experience any snowfall. What was on the ground was actually slush - basically snow that is starting to melt; large grains of ice.


Today, 14 December 2009, is effectively our third day in Hokkaido and we started the day's tour with a leisurely drive through the main streets of Sapporo - passing by scenic landmarks like the Old Hokkaido Government Building and Odori Park. However we were all oblivious to the fact that the coach was passing by the Tokeidai (Sapporo) Clock Tower. At that moment our tour guide was so engrossed in a discussion with us that she did not realised the landmark was right in front. The coach driver actually circled round to pass the Clock Tower again but we were then in another world of our own. Anyway our guide assured us that we'll get to see this landmark when we returned from the north towards the end of the week.

We stopped at the magnificent Sapporo TV Tower for some photo taking and the perennial toilet break. This morning we also visited a stall selling fresh seafood and proceeded to "invade" a shop near the Tanukikoji Shopping Arcade where boxes and boxes of the famous Hokkaido "White Lovers (白い恋人) Chocolate" were purchased by members of the group.


So far we have been moving within the central Hokkaido area around Sapporo but today we were heading north towards Asahikawa (旭川) (refer to map above). Halfway through the journey one can't help but noticed that the scenery outside has changed to that of a breathtaking winter wonderland. Fields, roads, trees and rooftops were now covered by canopies of pure white snow. It reminded me of the Korean drama, Winter Sonata - images of Bae Yong-joon (배용준) and Choi Ji-woo (최지우) frolicking in the snow appeared in front of my eyes. [Yes I know, some of you are thinking that I am very "auntie" to watch such Korean soap operas. I actually watched Winter Sonata after my visit to Nami Island (earlier post - "Winter Sonata Island - Nami Island"); I wanted to do some comparisons of what is "real to what is reel" - ok, ok, also a little bit aunty ...].


As the coach came to a halt at our toilet stop, some of us were filled with excitement, no not because of the fact that we could finally relieve ourselves after a long journey but because we could now, for the first time, touch fine powdery snow and sink our ankles into the blanket of white. Some of the younger ones attempted to start a snowball fight but realised that making snowballs was not that easy. It's quite difficult to bind one together as the snow was very soft and powdery. Needless to say there was a lot of photo taking at this stopover.

Lunch was at a restaurant that offered a nice buffet spread covering Japanese, Chinese, Korean and Western food. Our tour guide also provided a round of free ice cream; throughout the trip she also offered titbits, buns and usage of her own supply of horse oil cream for our dry skins - definitely another first.

The Asahiyama Zoo (旭山動物園) was less than 25 minutes from our lunch stop and on arrival we were greeted by quite a heavy snow fall. This zoo is located on the outskirts of Asahikawa City; it is the northernmost zoo in Japan. Some will say that it is small in comparison to many other zoos in the world but I can assure you walking around it in winter with snow falling on you is an experience that is very different. I find the view of the zoo with snow all around rather breathtaking and majestic. The temperature display was registering temperatures of -3.9 to -4.3 degrees centigrade. The animals are similar to those you find in other zoos but against a white background they somehow looked more magnificent. We were unlucky to miss the twice a day parade of penguins but were happy to watch them and the other animals in their unique enclosures. We left the zoo as it was closing with strains of "auld lang syne" being played over its PA system.

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The skies were already dark when we reached Asahikawa Ramen Village which has eight of the area's best ramen shops in a single outlet. While some in the group headed for their dinner we decided to visit some of the stores around the area. Among us about ten pairs of boots and shoes were purchased, quite a few from the UNIQLO outlet there. One member of the group had to buy her footwear out of sheer necessity as the sole of one of her boots had started to come off the day before. Well like they say, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention" so she and my wife have actually approached a shop the night before to ask for some rubber bands - which was no easy task as they do not speak Japanese and the shopkeeper doesn't understand much English. In the end they managed to get what they wanted and the result of this temporary measure is as shown in the photo. But the irony of it is that I have with me, all along, a bunch of rubber bands, some safety pins, threads, needles and band-aid bandages which I always packed for all my trips in case of minor "emergencies" like ... a sole dropping off! Anyway it's a good excuse to shop because in the end she bought at least two if not three pairs of new footwear.

The whole tour group congregated at the lobby after checking in to the Hotel Crescent Asahikawa. We then followed our guide as she brought us down a couple of streets to where some food and drinking outlets were located. Here the "herd" separated into smaller groups to look for their preferred joint. We decided to head for a "Mos Burger" outlet nearby and had our fast food dinner there. After which I headed back to the hotel for my "beauty" sleep while the others ventured around the area.

It was a good third day, members of the tour have started to warm up to each other. The initial stage of exploration as members get to know one another through safe "cocktail" conversations have given way to exchanges of jokes. I soon dozed off with images of polar bears hibernating away at Asahiyama Zoo.