December 24, 2009

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 1 - Lake Toya, Noboribetsu Bear Park, Toya Jigokudani, Ainu Village

Yes it's my first visit to Hokkaido but it's also a trip of many 'first'. Have heard so much about the beauty of the place from friends and relatives who have been there that I left our shores with heightened anticipation. I will finally get to see the place for myself, experience snow fall, feel the touch of chill winds on my face ... will it turn out the way I have pictured in my mind?

This is the second time that the whole immediate family is touring together (the first was when we visited our ancestral village in China), for all other trips, one or two members could not make it. This also marks the first time that two of my cousins (and part of their families) and my wife's auntie and family, are also part of the "herd" - to borrow a term from our colourful tour guide.

We were supposed to be touring with another agency but were told at the last moment that they could not get the airline tickets - another first! After some frantic searching another travel company was found - it’s no joke trying to book a tour, at the very last minute, which satisfies the required timing, itinerary and budget. But this travel agent is a new kid on the block, it's only two years old, none of us have even heard of it before. Another first - how will it turn out? Will it be a disaster?

The tour group was 38 strong, a rather large group for any tour leader or guide to manage. How will members of this "herd" get along with such diversity in character and idiosyncrasy? Will there be many late comers when we gather in the morning or return to the coach after some frantic photo takings at scenic spots or after an "invasion" of souvenir shops? Another first!

Ours was a chartered flight that transit at Taipei. Had to kill a few hours in the transit area, not too bad though, had some time to do some window shopping and even check my emails. By the time we touched down at Chitose Airport it was almost 3 in the afternoon (Hokkaido time). It was a breeze passing through immigrations and customs. We were then met by our rather enthusiastic and passionate tour guide who is a Singaporean residing in Tokyo.

Chitose Salmon Aquarium
As daylight was fading fast our resourceful guide re-arranged the whole itinerary to ensure that we can cover as much as possible - what a fantastic lady! So Chitose Salmon Aquarium became the first stop although it was supposed to be covered towards the end of the tour. A light drizzle greeted us as we took some photos with the Chitose River as background. In addition to salmons the aquarium also boasts a collection of Japanese huchen, rainbow trout, brown trout, rare kokanee and white sturgeon. Went down to the Chitose River Underwater Observatory but could not really see anything as the water was murky. By the time we emerged from the building the whole sky was already dark even though it was only 4 pm. This is a disadvantage when touring in winter as the days are rather short.

Dinner at Lake ToyaKaiseki Meal
Spent our first night in Hokkaido at Toya Kanko Hotel (Lake Toya Hotel). The whole group met in the dining hall to savour a traditional Japanese kaiseki (multi-course) meal wearing our yukata. While some of the others headed for the hot spring baths I sank into the futon that was laid out on tatami straw mat and snoozed away.

Woke up in the morning (the 13 December 2009) to a panoramic view of Lake Toya and Mt. Yotei from the bedroom window. As we stepped out of the hotel after breakfast we were pleasantly greeted by flurries (light snowfall). We boarded the coach after some photo taking around the lake. As the coach pulled out from the parking lot we were sent off by a few of the hotel staff waving flags of Singapore, Malaysia and some other southeast asian countries - people in rural areas tend to be warmer (or were they happy that we have spent quite some amount of yen on sake and wine during dinner the night before? - just kidding!).

The feeling was beautiful as we stepped out of the coach at the Noboribetsu Bear Park because gentle flurries were caressing our faces. The entire park, built on the top of a 550m high mountain, is home to nearly 140 Amur brown bears. We were at the second farm where only female bears are kept. Here we fed the bears with apples, some of which were those that we did not consumed during our dinner the night before that our guide has cleverly collected for this purpose; some were purchased together with cookie snacks from the store. The bears were very resourceful in getting their meals. Some stood up and waved, some clubbed their hands in greetings, and a couple of them were even lying on their backs to attract attention. In the midst of all this displays of cuteness I could not help but noticed that the law of nature still rules - those bears at the front were the aggressive and dominant ones. The weaker and smaller members were relegated to the far end of the enclosure, furthest away from where most of the food would land. So I suggested to those around me to throw the goodies as far back as possible.

Bears at Noboribetsu Bear Park
The next stop was the nearby Toya Jigokudani (Hell Valley) where we were treated to a breath-taking view of hot steam vents, sulphurous streams and other volcanic activity. The snowfall was now heavier and when blended with the rising steam in the valley it somehow created an even more spectacular view and atmosphere. Then came dessert time - some members of the tour group started emerging from the park service centre with ice cream in hand. Somehow ice cream tastes better when it's consumed at below zero degree.


Soon it was time for the much talked about Hokkaido seafood meal where you get to savour Hokkaido's king crab, hairy crab, abalone, scallops, etc. First, the group proceeded to the market to select and purchase their seafood. Then it's up to the restaurant for the steamboat meal. I have been told by many who were here before of how delicious and sweet the food is. To be frank I am not much of a sashimi fan and so I found the meal just ok (I'm a true blue Singaporean so give me my chilli and pepper crabs anytime). Hokkaido Lavender PillowBut my kids, who love sashimi, enjoyed the meal The "herd" then proceeded back downstairs for some shopping, buying among other things, lavender pillows (filled with lavender that helps calms nerves and induces sleep) and the Hokkaido Horse Oil Cream (this is made from oil from the skins of horses; supposedly good for dry skin).

Hokkaido Seafood Meal
The next stop was the Ainu Village at Shiraoi. This is a re-created Ainu village on the shores of Lake Poroto, with homes and buildings constructed in the original native style of these indigenous inhabitants of Hokkaido. We visited the Ainu museum first to view the displays there that relate to us the Ainu history, culture and traditions. This was followed by a performance of traditional Ainu folk dances inside a cise (a thatched house).

Ainu CultureAinu Folk Dance
We ended the day with a visit to the Otaru Canal and the Otaru Music Box Museum. Along the way the group queued up for some ice cream, the most sort after flavour being that of the lavender. As we licked down the delicious dessert a temperature of 0.7 degree C was being displayed under the clock besides the Otaru Canal.

Otaru Canal
It has been a day and a half, and so far so good. The tour has gone on smoothly with no major hiccups.

December 21, 2009

Males With Long Hair Will Be Attended To Last ...

Males With Long Hair Attended To LastNo, there is nothing wrong with the title ... older Singaporeans would remember that this statement belongs to a national campaign launched in the island state during the early seventies! Before I go into details regarding this event let me provide some background information ...

Oh, by the way if you were wondering why am I blogging about this instead of the trip to Hokkaido, which I have just returned from, let me explain. I actually started drafting this post before I left. I was listing some points for my profile then and memories of my teen years came streaming back from the past. I started to reminisce (definitely a sign of old age) and I was practically transported back to the sixties, mind-wise, that is. So I told myself that I should record down what I can remember before more of these precious memories disappear.

Well for my fellow citizens, if you are a baby boomer like me I hope that when you read these postings you would go on a nostalgic trip of your own - may it bring back lots and lots of pleasant and amusing memories? And if you find that some of what I recall is incorrect (due mainly to memory lapses - the brain is not working like what it was 40 years ago) please do point them out. Please feel free to comment and contribute as you could have a much clearer picture of things. For the younger readers I hope that what I present would give you a glimpse into what life was like then for your parents and grandparents during their younger days. Ok let's get back to the topic ...

The Sixties was a turbulent, yet exciting, time of radical changes especially for countries in the west. It was a period of social, political and technological upheaval. The young began to rebel against the conservative norms that were faithfully adhered to by their parents and forefathers. It saw the rise of various movements - for sexual freedom, for gay's and women's liberation, for peace etc. This period also gave birth to the hippie subculture within which communities were created with members embracing sexual freedom and experimenting in the use of drugs such as marijuana and LSD. The hippie fashions and values soon exerted a major effect on various aspect of mainstream society, influencing popular music, television, film, literature, and the arts. Male pop and rock stars began to spot long hair, often with lengths that cascaded below their shoulders, and many of them began to experiment in drugs.

During the sixties and seventies J-pop or K-pop did not exist. At that time western pop culture, television and films influenced the young in the more cosmopolitan cities of Asia, including Singapore. And in no time some young males in Singapore began to grow their hair long, emulating their favourite idols from the west. The government was worried then that the youth of Singapore would succumb to this decadent subculture. It began to equate long hair with hippies, which in turn is taken to mean drug addiction. That's when the campaign against men with long hair was launched in 1970. Posters were put up in post offices and government offices to warn that males with long hair will be attended to last. They carried with them sketches of four views of a man with descriptions classifying what is considered to be "long hair". (You can have a peek at this poster here)

Needless to say if you're a student back then you will most likely be sent marching off to the barber the moment your hair touches your eyebrows, crosses your collar or starts to cover your ears. I still can picture Mr. "Terror" Cheong weaving in and out of our ranks as we stood to attention for morning assembly at NJC. As a government employee you would be warned if you are a male sporting long hair and if necessary disciplinary actions could be taken against those who refuse to trim their top.

My brother was a Malaysian then and I remembered him turning up one day with his hair (rather badly) cut. He told us that he was refused entry at the railway checkpoint until he agreed to have his precious hair trimmed by an old Indian barber stationed strategically nearby. He then had the initials "LH" written near the "entry chop" in his passport. I consoled him by telling him not to feel bad because even celebrities, mainly pop stars, have to comply with this requirement if they wanted to enter Singapore. In 1972 Cliff Richard was supposed to make an appearance in the island but did not do so because he was not willing to have his hair trimmed. In that same year Led Zeppelin also had to cancel a concert because the officials wouldn't let them off the plane at Changi Airport.

I recall in one conversation a group of us was having with our principal concerning this issue of anti-long hair, a student amongst us (if I remember correctly, he is the one who is now the CEO of a large local corporation) made a statement to the effect that he was certain if Einstein were to visit Singapore he would not be asked to trim his hair.

Anyway my brother did get to keep his hair long as he subsequently left to further his studies in the UK. I was just talking to a colleague about this issue when he told me he too did not have any problem as he also studied overseas and kept long hair then. I was a bit envious so I told him that those who had this opportunity are now suffering as he is now almost bald and the centre of my brother's crop is also starting to thin out ... having said that I made a quick check of my head (after all it is supposed to be hereditary), so far so good, am keeping my fingers crossed though.

I could not keep long hair while I was a student and neither could I do so while still working. Looks like the only opportunity left for me to indulge in this "missed" opportunity at vanity is when I retire - provided there is still enough hair left. I told my wife that when I'm retired I will let my hair grow long and tie it up into a little pony tail. She suggested that I do not walk near her if that's the way I'm going look like after 62.

At that time male artists with long hair were also not allowed to appear on television. Hence I did not get to watch any of my pop idols (the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Hollies, etc.) on TV then. Teenagers of today of course could watch all their favourite artists perform not only on television but also on the internet - how privileged!

My Copy of Sgt Peppers AlbumSongs that were allegedly referring to the use of drugs were also not allowed to be aired on TV or radio. Some were actually replaced on albums that were sold in Singapore. At that time I wanted to purchase what is arguably the most influential album in the history of popular music - the Beatles' "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band" but decided not to because a few tracks including "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds", "With A Little Help from My Friend" and "A Day in the Life" (if I remembered correctly) were substituted with songs from other Beatles albums. Finally I asked a college friend of mine from Batu Pahat, CS Kuo (he is now a doctor residing in Sydney), to get a copy of the ‘unadulterated’ album when he goes back to his hometown for the holidays. I agreed to still pay him in the event that the album was confiscated at the causeway checkpoint. Of course the latter did not happen and I still have the album today. The ban was eventually lifted - not sure when though. By the way the BBC also banned a couple of the songs from this album from airplay. The Beatles White Album also has at least one song - "Happiness is a Warm Gun" - substituted in the Singapore version but I bought it much later when the ban was lifted. This song was also banned by the BBC in UK.



Many of us were not happy that as teenage boys we were not allowed to keep our hair long. We would also have loved to be able to watch our favourite artists appear on TV. However being a parent now I do understand the paternalistic concerns one has (especially being Asians) to the dangers that the young might be exposed to. And if we were to look at the drug addiction problems some nearby countries have with their youth we can now say that our government may have done the right thing at that given period in time although some might argue that we were over cautious at times - but then it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Wow, there is still so much to talk about regarding life as a teenager in early Singapore but will have to leave them for subsequent postings.

December 5, 2009

Winter Sonata Island - Nami Island

BoysOverFlower - Then n NowBoys Over Flowers (earlier post - "Boys Over Muju Resort") won the most popular drama category in the Seoul Drama Awards 2009 and its male leads, members of F4, have now become the heart-throbs of thousands of teenage girls all over East and South-East Asia. So it's no wonder that Lee Min-ho's (이민호) public appearance in Singapore to officiate at a store's opening in October had to be cancelled due to crowd control issues. But at the start of the "K-drama" invasion , at the beginning of this decade, the cast of the Korean F4 were still in school. Who then was the Korean drama lead that stole the many thousands fluttering hearts of ladies (the mothers, aunties or elder sisters of to-day's die-hard and ardent fans of the Korean F4)? - none other than BYJ!


Bae Yong Joon (배용준)(BYJ) became the darling of thousands of ladies after the launch of the TV drama, Winter Sonata (겨울연가) in 2002. This TV serial was so popular that 80% of Japan was watching it at its peak and very soon the fever spread to the whole of East and Southeast Asia. This was indeed a phenomenon, something that no one could have dreamt of because prior to the onslaught of the Korean wave, Japan was then the nation that was casting great influence through the export of her J-pop and J-culture to many of the countries in the region.

Well who could have dared imagine that one day thousands of Japanese housewives would idolise a Korean artist when Japan was actually the dominant power that was exerting her control and influence over the Korean way of life during the earlier part of the twentieth century (Korea was under Japanese rule from mid-1910 to mid-1945). I still can recall seeing, some years back, many Japanese K-fans browsing over pin-ups of Bae Yong Joon in the souvenir stalls at the traditional Nakamise shopping arcade that line the path towards the Sensoji Temple in the Asakusa district of Tokyo.

The success of Winter Sonata can be attributed to the many ingredients that went into the making of this delicious Korean "cake" - a beautiful and very touching love storyline that boast a handsome hero and his pretty damsel (Choi Ji-woo (최지우)); good acting from a charming cast; melancholic yet romantic music; soothing tunes with sentimental lyrics. And to top it all up, the "icing" - a breathtaking winter scenery that servers as the romantic backdrop for numerous of the memorable and touching scenes. The location that provided this "topping" is Nami Island (남이섬).


Nami Island Photo Slide ShowNamiseom is an island located on top of the Cheongpyeong Lake. It was formed with the completion of the Cheongpyeong Dam in 1943. It has an area of 460,000 m2 and is about one and a half hours' drive (63 km) from Seoul. It was named after General Nami (1441-1469) who was promoted after suppressing a riot but denounced and executed as a traitor subsequently.

We boarded the ferry for the trip (which took less than 30 minutes) from Gapyeong Wharf, disembarked at Nami Island Wharf and walked through the white arch gateway that leads to the Central White Pine Tree Lane, passing the tomb of General Nami
on the left. Along here is where you will find numerous exhibition halls.



This lushly green island boast a wide collection of trees and plants; offering animals like deer, squirrels, rabbits, ostriches and birds a pristine sanctuary. In the case of man he not only enjoys a serene, clean, green and fresh environment but he has also available to him facilities for recreation and relaxation, including, among others, a bike center, swimming pool, electric car tour and pleasure boats.


This placed used to be visited mainly by locals before Winter Sonata. But after the spread of the "WS fever" the island has become a target of invasion by thousands
of tourists from East and Southeast Asia. If you refer to the Nami Island Tour Guide's map of the island you can follow the trails of Winter Sonata as the main filming locations are clearly marked on it using little red hearts, while posters, statutes, etc. are used to pinpoint the actual locations on the physical path. Well which ardent Winter Sonata fan could resist the temptation of having a photograph taken at each of these memorable spots on this romantic island. One of the most popular scenic spot for such an undertaking is the one with the island's Metasequoia path (a forest path surrounded by white birches and Korean white pines) as the background (seen in the above right photo). And I am very certain that when you are here you will take one such shot for the album.

Will be leaving for Hokkaido in less than a week's time so my next posting will most probably be around Christmas. Meanwhile here's wishing one and all a Merry X'mas.

[ Thank you to auntie Poh Choo for the photo of BYJ taken during a visit of his to Singapore ]

December 3, 2009

Boys Over Muju Resort

The Korean Drama "Boys Over Flowers" (Kgotboda Namja - 꽃보다 남자) was on TV a couple of months ago when I happened to catch a glimpse of an episode with some members of the cast in a hotel within a ski resort. That's when it hit me that the place looked very familiar ... eh? ... I was actually there last year. The place is the Muju Resort - a very beautiful, european-styled resort. The hotel is the 5-star Hotel Tirol.



Being there makes you think you're in some little european village in the Alps even though you are actually in South Korea. This is one awesome place. If its not because of seeing it on TV again I could well have put it away at the back of my mind. That's when I decided that I should start a little corner in cyber space to keep a record of pleasant memories. At the same time I hope to share them with those who drop by. Hopefully while here visitors could find something that is informative, interesting and useful. As I pen my thoughts and feelings in this little cyber hideaway do note that certain views and ideas expressed are based purely on personal opinions and preferences. The reader is of course free to disagree.

Muju Resort Night View

Muju Resort, lying about 188 km southeast of Seoul, spreads over 1,700 acres of nature as part of the Deogyo National Park. As well as skiing in the winter, it offers leisure activities throughout the year whereby guests can enjoy a gondola ride to the beautiful peak of Deogyusan Mountain, tee-off on an Arnold Palmer designed 18-hole wildlife golf course, or relax in the resort's outdoor hot springs.

I have stayed in many hotels during my visits to various countries over the years but up till now only one has left a deep, strong and lasting impression on me - Hotel Tirol. Tirol is the name of one of Austria's nine states, located in Western Austria. The beauty and warmth of this hotel is very evident through the unique Austrian atmosphere created by its authentic Austrian architecture. The superb interior encompasses you with cosiness as it bathed in the warmth of romantic and gentle lightings.
Hotel Tirol viewed from the side

As you walk through the front doors you will be "greeted" by an imperial staircase with the hotel's name prominently displayed across the facing wall. As you capture the beauty of the place with your cameras do remember to take some snapshots with this stairway as the backdrop.

Main imperial staircase at Hotel Tirol

Each and every room at Hotel Tirol is adorned with Italian tiles, authentic furniture and panels made from the Austrian larch tree, so when you enter your room you will immediately smell the fine scent of an Austrian forest. This is supposed to give one a natural therapy similar to taking a walk through the alpine woods. No wonder it seems that MJ, the King of Pop himself, was interested in buying over the place during his visit here.



You must take a night walk through the picturesque europrean styled buildings around Hotel Tirol. You will get the serene feeling that you are strolling along some little european village in the Alps. Better still, why not enjoy an ice cream cone as you do your walkabout - especially if its a freezing cold night - only for those who are masochists!

And of course don't forget to bring your cameras as there are many cute and cosy little spots for some memorable snapshots.

Area around vicinity of Hotel Tirol

The ski area is just a stone throw away from the hotel. We were at the resort on the last day of the ski season as such the crowd was not there and we did not really get to frolic in the snow. The ski/snowboard slopes were empty. What was on the ground was more like crust or wet granular snow. The timing was wrong.

Those who watched the 12th episode of "Boys Over Flowers" will of course know that at the right period in time the snow-filled slopes actually looked gorgeous as white backdrops for the hundreds of colourfully outfitted fun seekers.

Would love to return to this beautiful wonderland but this time round must make sure it would be during the peak of the skiing season. This is a place that one could come back to whenever there is a need to de-stress and relax. And if after a while of lazing around makes you bored then there are numerous leisure activities available in the resort to keep you occupied.
Boys Over Flower publicity image
For those who are not familiar with "Kgotboda Namja (Boys Over Flowers)" - its a Korean drama adaptation of the Japanese manga "Hana Yori Dango" - the title is a pun on the Japanese old saying 'dumplings over flowers' referring to people who attend the Hanami (flower festival), but instead of enjoying flowers, focus more on the materialistic side of the event such as getting food and buying souvenirs. This is the third television drama adaptation of the popular Japanese manga after the success of both the Taiwanese (Meteor Garden - Liúxing Huayuán) and Japanese versions. You can read more about it - here.

Korean dramas have become very popular throughout Asia in recent years and have contributed to the general phenomenon of the Korean Wave that is exporting Korean culture throughout the region. This Korean Fever began with the export of Korean TV dramas such as "Autumn Fairy Tale", "Winter Sonata", "Stairways To Heaven" and "Dae Jang Geum" (Jewel in the Palace). This was followed closely by Korean movies, popular music, food and language (even my auntie Poh Choo is taking Korean lessons with her housewives friends).
Winter Sonata popular publicity image
The success of South Korean dramas, movies, and pop music has become a drawing force for South Korea; attracting thousands of tourists from countries in East and Southeast Asia - such as Japan, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines, Singapore, Indonesia and Vietnam. Filming locations of popular Television dramas have now become "must visit" destinations in the travel itineraries of these 'fan-tourists'. I hope to write about Nami Island, the romantic setting for "Winter Sonata" in my next posting. So do drop by again in the coming week ...