Cyb'Away

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 5 - Snowmobiling at Furano, Herb Hill Furano, JR Sapporo Station

2010-02-26T20:02:00.002+08:00

Woke up early and took a walk around the front of Sahoro Resort Hotel. A large number of Japanese teens were already going through their morning exercise routine - could be warming up for their early ski runs. They were probably students taking courses in skiing at the resort. The freshness of the air and calmness of the place was so uplifting and invigorating. The snow covered grounds looked bluish against the early morning sky; the stillness of the view invoked a sense of peacefulness and calmness. Would have loved to stand where I was longer but it was time for breakfast.

We soon boarded our coach for the hour and a half drive to Furano. Today the 17 December 2009 is when many of us in the group will have a first taste of cruising on a snowmobile.

The place we were heading for was the "Hill of Seasonal Colours - Hill of Shikisai" (四季彩の丘). This large farm is located near Biei (美瑛町, Biei-chō?) on a rolling hill which provides visitors with a breath-taking view of wide fields and hills that includes the Tokachidake mountain range. This 7 hectares wonder boasts a variety of beautiful flowers and plants that transform the whole region into a kaleidoscope of colours during the warmer periods of the year. In winter it becomes a playground of white for those seeking some fun in the snow.

On arrival many headed straight for the little rooms to answer the call of nature. A little commotion soon followed as everyone tried to find themselves a snowmobile. More of the vehicles were brought out from a shed when the staff there realised that the tour group was actually much larger than their normal batch of fun seekers. Some in the group also avail themselves to gloves and jackets that were presented for use. This little interlude lasted for nearly half an hour before we were ready to move off.

We were soon engulfed in fumes from the exhausts of the snowmobiles as the convoy roared off at the start of a ride that would bring us through a few kilometres of tracks, cutting through snow blanketed expense of open spaces, bushes and trees. The pungent stink of exhaust fumes disappeared as our snowmobiles picked up speed. We were now breathing fresh mountain air as wind rushes past our faces while our vehicles rise and fall with the undulating terrain.

Wow, the view around was exhilarating. You could see for miles and miles - hills and fields of white, interrupted, here and there, by occasional pockets of bushes, tress and houses. We were surrounded by the beauty of nature at her very best. I wasted no time in recording the panoramic view with my camcorder - my wife was controlling the vehicle and I was riding pillion. I was so captivated by what laid before me that I was oblivious to the fact that we were moving through uneven grounds most of the time. The result is of course footages that would drive viewers crazy with dizziness and nausea.

The convoy soon snaked to a halt as a couple of snowmobiles stopped in their tracks and could not be re-started by their riders. That was when the unwelcomed and irritating exhaust fumes returned to peg us. Then came the rescue party - a couple of the guides came knifing through the snow on their high performance machines to assist those who were desperately trying to revive their vehicles. I seized the opportunity and recorded the surroundings with my camcorder but had to stop doing so after a short while as my exposed fingers were going numb. We were soon on our way heading upwards along the slopes of a hill.

Our tour guide had planned a photo shoot for the whole group at the top of the hill. As it turned out some members of the group were held back for quite a long time. When they eventually appeared it was too late as time for the ride was up and we had to head back to the farm building where we started from.

The delay was actually due to a minor accident involving Uncle J and Aunty A. The latter had decided to try her hand at controlling the vehicle but made too sharp a turn and both of them ended up with their heads partially buried in a soft powdery cushion of snow. The immediate moments after the "flying stunt" were captured by Eddie who is always at the ready with his hands on the "trigger".

Left the farm just after noon time and proceeded to Herb Hill Furano (ハーブヒルふらの) for the popular "Furano" buffet. Found the curry rice (Japanese style) and ramen rather nice. After lunch it was shopping time; here is where you will find many of the Lavender products like the Lavender Water Cream, Lavender Skin Conditioner, Lavender Q10 Cream + Horse Oil and of course the Lavender Pillow. Soon it was time for us to go, time to head back to Sapporo.

By the time we reached JR Sapporo Station (札幌駅) it was 4:33 pm, the sky was already dark. This place is the transportation hub for all of Hokkaido and its the place to board JR lines, the subway, and both local and tourist buses. But connected to it is a large underground shopping area. Here you will find the Daimaru Department Store and other shopping malls like Apia, Paseo and Esta. We were supposed to have dinner there that night but food was definitely not on the minds of the ladies in my group. Yes they were hungry but its not for food, their huge appetite is for shopping.

In no time almost every one of them made a beeline for Daimaru to invade the Burberry boutique. Their target, the "Blue Label". This exclusive Burberry check pattern spin-off line is only available in Japan and it's designed for the younger generation of Japanese in mind. Quite a number of the handbags and wallets were snatched up by members from the tour group. This label is supposed to be sold only in Japan but some visitors actually buy and carry back large quantities to be resold back home as such the company has issued new sale rules on 28 December 2009 to try and prevent this practice.

Soon it was time for us to head for the night's accommodation at Hotel Com's Shin-Chitose Airport. On the way we detoured to take a look at the Tokeidai (Sapporo) Clock Tower, as promised by our tour guide since we missed this earlier in the week during a day city tour as mentioned in Part 2. I guess it was lucky that we did missed seeing it that day because in the night this venerable landmark looked much more elegant under the illumination of gentle lights. We also get to see the magnificent Sapporo TV Tower and Odori Park with their beautiful decorative lightings.

That night we had our dinner in our rooms at the hotel with food bought from the numerous eating outlets at JR Sapporo Station shopping malls plus drinks and titbits purchased from vending machines located at the reception lobby. This was followed by some serious packing as we will be checking in our luggage and cartons of stuff for our flight back home tomorrow. How time flies, seems like it was only yesterday that we have just landed at the airport ...

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 4 - Lake Akan, Marimo, Sahoro Ski Resort

2010-01-17T12:19:00.008+08:00

"Morning call" was an hour later today - 16 December 2009. Took my first glimpse of Lake Akan (阿寒湖, Akan-ko) from the hotel room window. A sense of peace, serenity, tranquillity and calmness soon engulfed me as my eyes caught sight of the thin layers of mist, gently caressing the shores across the clam and sleepy lake. The boat piers, covered with freshly fallen silent shrouds of snow (borrowing a line from Simon & Garfunkel's "I Am A Rock"), looked like white slender fingers pointing out towards the vast expense of water. A few individuals were already down on the hotel's snow-covered side of the lake, admiring and soaking in the beauty of the scenery; capturing the breathtaking view with their cameras.

Lake Akan is of course one of the famous trio in Akan National Park. We have visited the other two, Lake Kusharo and Lake Mashu, the day before (Part 3). This beautiful crater lake is famous for its spherical algae called "marimo". Although related species of this rare algae are found in the lakes of some European countries and in some other lakes in Japan, its only here that it forms into a spherical surface that is furry, soft and smooth, reaching up to 20 to 30 centimetres in diameter over time (up to a century @ about 5 mm per year). Smaller marimo in glass bottles are a popular souvenir for Japanese as well as foreign tourists.

My niece brought two pairs home to add to her collection of a pair from a previous trip. She joked that these can form part of her family heirloom to be passed down, as her pet marimo can live up to a hundred years.

Marimo with colourful birth stones in a bottle are also sold as a mascot phone strap. There is also a character whose name "Marimokkori" is derived from "marimo" and the Japanese slang "mokkori”. Its fame comes through merchandising. What does "mokkori" means - notice the bulge on Marimokkori - go figure it out (... still can't get it? ... then point your mouse at the image on the right). So is this "crudeness" or "creativity"? Doesn't really matter, what is important is that the idea has reaped in millions of yen.
Caught a glimpse of two posters in the hotel lobby which I initially thought were that for a Japanese movie or TV drama. As it turns out they were for a 2008 Chinese romantic comedy film titled "If You Are the One" (非诚勿扰 - Fēichéng Wùrǎo), starring Shu Qi. Lake Akan was of course, among the popular sites of Hokkaido featured in this film. It became an immediate hit in China, grossing 300 million yuan (¥4.1 billion) in its first 19 days of screening and turned Hokkaido into a new tourism spot for Chinese travellers.

We left Lake Akan before 10 am and proceeded to our next and only destination for the day. This could well be the highlight of the tour for some of the youngsters in the group - a first taste of winter sports at Sahoro Resort. This is where Cub Med Sahoro is also located at.

We reached the Sahoro Resort Hotel during lunch time and had Japanese cuisine at the Yukizasa restaurant while our tour guide was busy checking us in. By the time we finished lunch she has just completed the check-in procedure. She then gathered the young ones and brought them up to the ski area. She did not bother to take her lunch first as she wanted to have the youngsters up at the slopes as early as possible. In this way they could enjoy a longer period of time at their winter activities (don't forget by 4 pm the sky would be dark and night skiing was not available). What a super tour guide; as professional as any Japanese, even though she is a Singaporean - really first class service. Meanwhile we waited for our keys to be issued. We then carried our baggage to our rooms before catching the next shuttle bus to join up with the youngsters.
When we reached the ski area we found the young ones enjoying themselves. A few were skiing while most of the others were snowboarding (or rather some of them were trying to snowboard). As it turned out the youngest in the group was the one with the most experience in this activity. Soon there were many tumbles and falls for those who were trying out this sport for the first time. But signs of enjoyment were written all over their faces. There were smiles and laughter all round after each and every crash!

Some of us older ones decided to try our hand at snow sliding and soon headed for the gentler slope allocated for this activity. I supposed it's not as challenging as snowboarding or skiing but it's still thrilling. A big thank you to the fellow tour member for giving me those "push starts". I really needed them - guess I am too heavy and cumbersome to "take off" on my own steam. It's a nice feeling to have icy air rushing against your face as you slide (or wobble in some cases) down the gentle gradient. Just like snowboarding, going downhill is fun but you will need to struggle up the slopes again for the next ride - no pain, no gain!

Somehow or rather when you are having fun time seems to pass by faster. Soon the whole ski area was engulfed in darkness, safe for a few artificially lighted areas. We boarded the shuttle for our return trip to the resort hotel. Many stories and small talks were exchanged over dinner that night. A few regrouped in someone's room to continue bonding over drinks through the night. The teenagers in my own group gathered outside at the front of the hotel to have a snow fight and tried their hands at making a snowman. The resulting man of snow did not turn out as nice as what we normally see on TV or movies. Do remember though that the snow in Hokkaido is rather fine, powdery and soft - not easy to "mould" but good for the butts and bones of those who are learning to ski or snowboard. Some who had tried skiing in other countries remembered ending up with bruises, aches and sore bottoms. My youngest, who is rather gung-ho, fell the most on the slopes that day but did not suffer a single bruise - some aches though.
Half a day for trying out winter sports is definitely not enough. The original tour we were supposed to be with features two days at a ski resort in nearby Furano but alas we got played out by the agent as mentioned earlier (Part 1). Do note that if you are picking out a winter tour ensure that it covers at least two days in ski resorts.

Well we are nearing the end of our tour. We will be heading back to Sapporo tomorrow and on the way we will be trying out snowmobiling. Enjoyed the meals provided at the resort (especially dinner) and had great fun at the slopes today. My "camera" fingers were numbed throughout most part of the day but it's worth it. Can't wait to try out the snowmobile ride ...

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 3 - Kitsune Mura Fox Farm, Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum, Lake Akan

2010-01-10T20:43:00.015+08:00

It was the 15 December 2009 and we were heading east from Asahikawa (旭川) towards Lake Akan (湖阿寒) where we will spend the night. Our first stop, not counting the "mandatory" toilet stop, was the Hokkaido Kitsune-Mura (北海道きつね村) - Fox Farm (Village) - in the Okhotsk region of eastern Hokkaido. Uncle Joe purchased some feed which we offered to foxes in the nearby cages. These animals really have fine, soft fur. They sure looked cute but you can see the cunningness in those sly eyes of theirs. No wonder we have the idiom, "as sly (cunning) as a fox".

After some photo taking around the animals and with a torii within the grounds as backdrop we proceeded to go back into the shop which we have passed through earlier when entering into the farm area. The group spent a far longer period of time here than outside with the foxes. Why? For one, it's warmer inside the building and ... there were tons and tons of souvenirs and food stuff here - mainly associated with the fox. Many of us soon ended up clutching key chains, phone straps, T-shirts, dried cuttlefish, and etc., etc... The cash register started ringing away as if Christmas was already here. As we left the souvenir shop we noticed that our efficient coach driver was hacking away some ice that had formed near the entrance to the coach. He was worried that some of us could slip and fall while boarding the vehicle, how considerate and professional - fantastic service.

Our next stop was the Okhotsk Sea (Drift) Ice Museum (Okhotsk Ryu-hyo Museum - オホーツク流氷館) in Abashiri (網走). This museum with drift ice as the main theme is located on Mt Tento, adjoining the Tentozan Observatory that allows one to look out towards the Sea of Okhotsk and Lake Abashiri. On arrival we headed for the restaurant on top which has a fantastic view of the surroundings. This was where we had our lunch.

We trooped downstairs after filling our stomachs and headed towards a room that is refrigerated at around minus 18 degrees centigrade. We were told that if required we could put on overcoats that were hanging on racks outside this "Arctic" room. None of us took up the offer as we were all already wearing a few layers of winter apparels. Two charming attendants handed out a small towel to each of us as we were ushered through a door into the depths of a freezing world. We were told to twirl these towels while inside the cold chamber and see what will happen. I have seen this being done on a Taiwanese travel program on cable TV before. So I know what to expect.

The room was dimly lit but one could make out blocks of real drift ice from the Okhotsk sea (some could have drifted down from the Siberian coast), scattered around. Perched on top of some of them were stuffed animals like the red fox and seal. Surprisingly it was not as cold as I expected - must be the effectiveness of the thermal wear I have under the two other layers of thick clothing. Another reason is the absence of winds - on the outside one finds that it's the chilling winds slicing through that numbs you.

Soon we were behaving like young kids twirling the little towel we have as we moved around the room; making quite a considerable amount of noise with our laughters, comments and squeak of excitements. A few were clicking away with cameras in one hand while busy manoeuvring the towels, as if they were blades of a helicopter or airplane propellers, in the other. Don't really know how their photos turn out but watching the video that I filmed (with one hand while the other was turning like mad) makes me want to puke. As expected the towel that I was twirling around soon became as stiffed as a piece of hard cardboard.

We left the "ice laboratory" after the little "test" and proceeded to a theatre that features three super-wide-vision screens to watch a video. I decided to give this a miss as I believed that I have caught a glimpse of the show on TV before. (Just as well as I was told later that the narration was done entirely in Japanese and yes I have seen it before, it features an ice-breaking ship). I left the building to film the surrounding view with my camcorder. Wow, a real breathtaking feast for the eyes - remember we were on elevated grounds - Mt Tento (天都山) - looking towards part of the Abashiri coastline and lake. We soon boarded the coach to continue our journey towards Lake Akan but will be making two more stops.

Lake Akan (阿寒湖) is located in the western part of the Akan National Park while the larger eastern portion contains Lake Mashu (摩周湖) and Lake Kussharo (屈斜路湖).
We made a brief photo stop at Lake Kussharo as the sky was darkening. This lake was formed from a crater and with a circumference of 57 km, is Hokkaido's largest fresh water lake.

We reached Lake Mashu at about 4 pm, by which time the sky was already pitched dark. This lake is referred to as the world's most transparent lake. It's transparent emerald-colored surface changes constantly but, alas, it was too dark for us to observe this aspect of its beauty. As the coach approaches the parking lot the lights in the building beside were being turned off. They were however immediately turned on again when the staff inside realised that a coach load of souvenir hungry and bladder full tourists have arrived. Some of us headed for the toilets while others looked for the important signage besides the lake for recording, on camera, the evidence required to prove that they have indeed been to this particular tourist spot. Then it's the time for the cash registers in the souvenir shop to ring.

Many boxes of Jyagapokkuru - Pokkuru potatoes (じゃがポックル) were purchased here together with other souvenirs and food stuff by the group. This premium potato strips from "Potato Farm" is yet another of Hokkaido's famous and popular snack. It's a "must bring back to Singapore to prove that you were in Hokkaido" item like the "White Lovers (白い恋人) Chocolate" mentioned in an earlier posting (Part 2). My son refers to it as "over-priced french fries" but its rich potato taste and texture makes it more tasty and delicious than french fries. Like any other sinful snacks its very addictive but don't worry you will soon stop eating because of its price and the intense competition from other family members.

We changed into our yakuta in the hotel at Lake Akan (Hotel Gozensui - ホテル御前水) and headed for the dining area. Our tour guide gathered us for a group photo to be taken - took some time though as members were all over the hall indulging in interesting banter. The noise level was definitely much higher than when we first met for dinner at Lake Toya. Could this friendship among members of a tour group and their guide continue even after the tour, when everyone has gone back to reality and the normal routine of life?

I decided that it was too dark to see anything around the lake and opted for sleep but the others did venture out in the cold of the night and managed to get some photos taken at some of the festively lighted spots. I shall savour the beauty of Lake Akan in the morning ... zzzzzz

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 2 - Sapporo City, Asahiyama Zoo, Asahikawa

2010-01-02T14:42:00.028+08:00

Woke up very early and noticed flurries against a dark morning sky through the hotel window, what a serene feeling - yes that's another first. Although I was in Korea last year (earlier post - "Boys Over Muju Resort") it was during the last days of winter and so did not get to experience any snowfall. What was on the ground was actually slush - basically snow that is starting to melt; large grains of ice.

Today, 14 December 2009, is effectively our third day in Hokkaido and we started the day's tour with a leisurely drive through the main streets of Sapporo - passing by scenic landmarks like the Old Hokkaido Government Building and Odori Park. However we were all oblivious to the fact that the coach was passing by the Tokeidai (Sapporo) Clock Tower. At that moment our tour guide was so engrossed in a discussion with us that she did not realised the landmark was right in front. The coach driver actually circled round to pass the Clock Tower again but we were then in another world of our own. Anyway our guide assured us that we'll get to see this landmark when we returned from the north towards the end of the week.

We stopped at the magnificent Sapporo TV Tower for some photo taking and the perennial toilet break. This morning we also visited a stall selling fresh seafood and proceeded to "invade" a shop near the Tanukikoji Shopping Arcade where boxes and boxes of the famous Hokkaido "White Lovers (白い恋人) Chocolate" were purchased by members of the group.

So far we have been moving within the central Hokkaido area around Sapporo but today we were heading north towards Asahikawa (旭川) (refer to map above). Halfway through the journey one can't help but noticed that the scenery outside has changed to that of a breathtaking winter wonderland. Fields, roads, trees and rooftops were now covered by canopies of pure white snow. It reminded me of the Korean drama, Winter Sonata - images of Bae Yong-joon (배용준) and Choi Ji-woo (최지우) frolicking in the snow appeared in front of my eyes. [Yes I know, some of you are thinking that I am very "auntie" to watch such Korean soap operas. I actually watched Winter Sonata after my visit to Nami Island (earlier post - "Winter Sonata Island - Nami Island"); I wanted to do some comparisons of what is "real to what is reel" - ok, ok, also a little bit aunty ...].

As the coach came to a halt at our toilet stop, some of us were filled with excitement, no not because of the fact that we could finally relieve ourselves after a long journey but because we could now, for the first time, touch fine powdery snow and sink our ankles into the blanket of white. Some of the younger ones attempted to start a snowball fight but realised that making snowballs was not that easy. It's quite difficult to bind one together as the snow was very soft and powdery. Needless to say there was a lot of photo taking at this stopover.

Lunch was at a restaurant that offered a nice buffet spread covering Japanese, Chinese, Korean and Western food. Our tour guide also provided a round of free ice cream; throughout the trip she also offered titbits, buns and usage of her own supply of horse oil cream for our dry skins - definitely another first.

The Asahiyama Zoo (旭山動物園) was less than 25 minutes from our lunch stop and on arrival we were greeted by quite a heavy snow fall. This zoo is located on the outskirts of Asahikawa City; it is the northernmost zoo in Japan. Some will say that it is small in comparison to many other zoos in the world but I can assure you walking around it in winter with snow falling on you is an experience that is very different. I find the view of the zoo with snow all around rather breathtaking and majestic. The temperature display was registering temperatures of -3.9 to -4.3 degrees centigrade. The animals are similar to those you find in other zoos but against a white background they somehow looked more magnificent. We were unlucky to miss the twice a day parade of penguins but were happy to watch them and the other animals in their unique enclosures. We left the zoo as it was closing with strains of "auld lang syne" being played over its PA system.

The skies were already dark when we reached Asahikawa Ramen Village which has eight of the area's best ramen shops in a single outlet. While some in the group headed for their dinner we decided to visit some of the stores around the area. Among us about ten pairs of boots and shoes were purchased, quite a few from the UNIQLO outlet there. One member of the group had to buy her footwear out of sheer necessity as the sole of one of her boots had started to come off the day before. Well like they say, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention" so she and my wife have actually approached a shop the night before to ask for some rubber bands - which was no easy task as they do not speak Japanese and the shopkeeper doesn't understand much English. In the end they managed to get what they wanted and the result of this temporary measure is as shown in the photo. But the irony of it is that I have with me, all along, a bunch of rubber bands, some safety pins, threads, needles and band-aid bandages which I always packed for all my trips in case of minor "emergencies" like ... a sole dropping off! Anyway it's a good excuse to shop because in the end she bought at least two if not three pairs of new footwear.

The whole tour group congregated at the lobby after checking in to the Hotel Crescent Asahikawa. We then followed our guide as she brought us down a couple of streets to where some food and drinking outlets were located. Here the "herd" separated into smaller groups to look for their preferred joint. We decided to head for a "Mos Burger" outlet nearby and had our fast food dinner there. After which I headed back to the hotel for my "beauty" sleep while the others ventured around the area.

It was a good third day, members of the tour have started to warm up to each other. The initial stage of exploration as members get to know one another through safe "cocktail" conversations have given way to exchanges of jokes. I soon dozed off with images of polar bears hibernating away at Asahiyama Zoo.

Hokkaido - A Trip of Many 'First' : Part 1 - Lake Toya, Noboribetsu Bear Park, Toya Jigokudani, Ainu Village

2009-12-24T23:00:00.033+08:00

Yes it's my first visit to Hokkaido but it's also a trip of many 'first'. Have heard so much about the beauty of the place from friends and relatives who have been there that I left our shores with heightened anticipation. I will finally get to see the place for myself, experience snow fall, feel the touch of chill winds on my face ... will it turn out the way I have pictured in my mind?

This is the second time that the whole immediate family is touring together (the first was when we visited our ancestral village in China), for all other trips, one or two members could not make it. This also marks the first time that two of my cousins (and part of their families) and my wife's auntie and family, are also part of the "herd" - to borrow a term from our colourful tour guide.

We were supposed to be touring with another agency but were told at the last moment that they could not get the airline tickets - another first! After some frantic searching another travel company was found - it’s no joke trying to book a tour, at the very last minute, which satisfies the required timing, itinerary and budget. But this travel agent is a new kid on the block, it's only two years old, none of us have even heard of it before. Another first - how will it turn out? Will it be a disaster?

The tour group was 38 strong, a rather large group for any tour leader or guide to manage. How will members of this "herd" get along with such diversity in character and idiosyncrasy? Will there be many late comers when we gather in the morning or return to the coach after some frantic photo takings at scenic spots or after an "invasion" of souvenir shops? Another first!

Ours was a chartered flight that transit at Taipei. Had to kill a few hours in the transit area, not too bad though, had some time to do some window shopping and even check my emails. By the time we touched down at Chitose Airport it was almost 3 in the afternoon (Hokkaido time). It was a breeze passing through immigrations and customs. We were then met by our rather enthusiastic and passionate tour guide who is a Singaporean residing in Tokyo.

As daylight was fading fast our resourceful guide re-arranged the whole itinerary to ensure that we can cover as much as possible - what a fantastic lady! So Chitose Salmon Aquarium became the first stop although it was supposed to be covered towards the end of the tour. A light drizzle greeted us as we took some photos with the Chitose River as background. In addition to salmons the aquarium also boasts a collection of Japanese huchen, rainbow trout, brown trout, rare kokanee and white sturgeon. Went down to the Chitose River Underwater Observatory but could not really see anything as the water was murky. By the time we emerged from the building the whole sky was already dark even though it was only 4 pm. This is a disadvantage when touring in winter as the days are rather short.

Spent our first night in Hokkaido at Toya Kanko Hotel (Lake Toya Hotel). The whole group met in the dining hall to savour a traditional Japanese kaiseki (multi-course) meal wearing our yukata. While some of the others headed for the hot spring baths I sank into the futon that was laid out on tatami straw mat and snoozed away.

Woke up in the morning (the 13 December 2009) to a panoramic view of Lake Toya and Mt. Yotei from the bedroom window. As we stepped out of the hotel after breakfast we were pleasantly greeted by flurries (light snowfall). We boarded the coach after some photo taking around the lake. As the coach pulled out from the parking lot we were sent off by a few of the hotel staff waving flags of Singapore, Malaysia and some other southeast asian countries - people in rural areas tend to be warmer (or were they happy that we have spent quite some amount of yen on sake and wine during dinner the night before? - just kidding!).

The feeling was beautiful as we stepped out of the coach at the Noboribetsu Bear Park because gentle flurries were caressing our faces. The entire park, built on the top of a 550m high mountain, is home to nearly 140 Amur brown bears. We were at the second farm where only female bears are kept. Here we fed the bears with apples, some of which were those that we did not consumed during our dinner the night before that our guide has cleverly collected for this purpose; some were purchased together with cookie snacks from the store. The bears were very resourceful in getting their meals. Some stood up and waved, some clubbed their hands in greetings, and a couple of them were even lying on their backs to attract attention. In the midst of all this displays of cuteness I could not help but noticed that the law of nature still rules - those bears at the front were the aggressive and dominant ones. The weaker and smaller members were relegated to the far end of the enclosure, furthest away from where most of the food would land. So I suggested to those around me to throw the goodies as far back as possible.

The next stop was the nearby Toya Jigokudani (Hell Valley) where we were treated to a breath-taking view of hot steam vents, sulphurous streams and other volcanic activity. The snowfall was now heavier and when blended with the rising steam in the valley it somehow created an even more spectacular view and atmosphere. Then came dessert time - some members of the tour group started emerging from the park service centre with ice cream in hand. Somehow ice cream tastes better when it's consumed at below zero degree.

Soon it was time for the much talked about Hokkaido seafood meal where you get to savour Hokkaido's king crab, hairy crab, abalone, scallops, etc. First, the group proceeded to the market to select and purchase their seafood. Then it's up to the restaurant for the steamboat meal. I have been told by many who were here before of how delicious and sweet the food is. To be frank I am not much of a sashimi fan and so I found the meal just ok (I'm a true blue Singaporean so give me my chilli and pepper crabs anytime). But my kids, who love sashimi, enjoyed the meal The "herd" then proceeded back downstairs for some shopping, buying among other things, lavender pillows (filled with lavender that helps calms nerves and induces sleep) and the Hokkaido Horse Oil Cream (this is made from oil from the skins of horses; supposedly good for dry skin).

The next stop was the Ainu Village at Shiraoi. This is a re-created Ainu village on the shores of Lake Poroto, with homes and buildings constructed in the original native style of these indigenous inhabitants of Hokkaido. We visited the Ainu museum first to view the displays there that relate to us the Ainu history, culture and traditions. This was followed by a performance of traditional Ainu folk dances inside a cise (a thatched house).

We ended the day with a visit to the Otaru Canal and the Otaru Music Box Museum. Along the way the group queued up for some ice cream, the most sort after flavour being that of the lavender. As we licked down the delicious dessert a temperature of 0.7 degree C was being displayed under the clock besides the Otaru Canal.

It has been a day and a half, and so far so good. The tour has gone on smoothly with no major hiccups.

Males With Long Hair Will Be Attended To Last ...

2009-12-21T21:10:00.010+08:00

No, there is nothing wrong with the title ... older Singaporeans would remember that this statement belongs to a national campaign launched in the island state during the early seventies! Before I go into details regarding this event let me provide some background information ...

Oh, by the way if you were wondering why am I blogging about this instead of the trip to Hokkaido, which I have just returned from, let me explain. I actually started drafting this post before I left. I was listing some points for my profile then and memories of my teen years came streaming back from the past. I started to reminisce (definitely a sign of old age) and I was practically transported back to the sixties, mind-wise, that is. So I told myself that I should record down what I can remember before more of these precious memories disappear.

Well for my fellow citizens, if you are a baby boomer like me I hope that when you read these postings you would go on a nostalgic trip of your own - may it bring back lots and lots of pleasant and amusing memories? And if you find that some of what I recall is incorrect (due mainly to memory lapses - the brain is not working like what it was 40 years ago) please do point them out. Please feel free to comment and contribute as you could have a much clearer picture of things. For the younger readers I hope that what I present would give you a glimpse into what life was like then for your parents and grandparents during their younger days. Ok let's get back to the topic ...

The Sixties was a turbulent, yet exciting, time of radical changes especially for countries in the west. It was a period of social, political and technological upheaval. The young began to rebel against the conservative norms that were faithfully adhered to by their parents and forefathers. It saw the rise of various movements - for sexual freedom, for gay's and women's liberation, for peace etc. This period also gave birth to the hippie subculture within which communities were created with members embracing sexual freedom and experimenting in the use of drugs such as marijuana and LSD. The hippie fashions and values soon exerted a major effect on various aspect of mainstream society, influencing popular music, television, film, literature, and the arts. Male pop and rock stars began to spot long hair, often with lengths that cascaded below their shoulders, and many of them began to experiment in drugs.

During the sixties and seventies J-pop or K-pop did not exist. At that time western pop culture, television and films influenced the young in the more cosmopolitan cities of Asia, including Singapore. And in no time some young males in Singapore began to grow their hair long, emulating their favourite idols from the west. The government was worried then that the youth of Singapore would succumb to this decadent subculture. It began to equate long hair with hippies, which in turn is taken to mean drug addiction. That's when the campaign against men with long hair was launched in 1970. Posters were put up in post offices and government offices to warn that males with long hair will be attended to last. They carried with them sketches of four views of a man with descriptions classifying what is considered to be "long hair". (You can have a peek at this poster here)

Needless to say if you're a student back then you will most likely be sent marching off to the barber the moment your hair touches your eyebrows, crosses your collar or starts to cover your ears. I still can picture Mr. "Terror" Cheong weaving in and out of our ranks as we stood to attention for morning assembly at NJC. As a government employee you would be warned if you are a male sporting long hair and if necessary disciplinary actions could be taken against those who refuse to trim their top.

My brother was a Malaysian then and I remembered him turning up one day with his hair (rather badly) cut. He told us that he was refused entry at the railway checkpoint until he agreed to have his precious hair trimmed by an old Indian barber stationed strategically nearby. He then had the initials "LH" written near the "entry chop" in his passport. I consoled him by telling him not to feel bad because even celebrities, mainly pop stars, have to comply with this requirement if they wanted to enter Singapore. In 1972 Cliff Richard was supposed to make an appearance in the island but did not do so because he was not willing to have his hair trimmed. In that same year Led Zeppelin also had to cancel a concert because the officials wouldn't let them off the plane at Changi Airport.

I recall in one conversation a group of us was having with our principal concerning this issue of anti-long hair, a student amongst us (if I remember correctly, he is the one who is now the CEO of a large local corporation) made a statement to the effect that he was certain if Einstein were to visit Singapore he would not be asked to trim his hair.

Anyway my brother did get to keep his hair long as he subsequently left to further his studies in the UK. I was just talking to a colleague about this issue when he told me he too did not have any problem as he also studied overseas and kept long hair then. I was a bit envious so I told him that those who had this opportunity are now suffering as he is now almost bald and the centre of my brother's crop is also starting to thin out ... having said that I made a quick check of my head (after all it is supposed to be hereditary), so far so good, am keeping my fingers crossed though.

I could not keep long hair while I was a student and neither could I do so while still working. Looks like the only opportunity left for me to indulge in this "missed" opportunity at vanity is when I retire - provided there is still enough hair left. I told my wife that when I'm retired I will let my hair grow long and tie it up into a little pony tail. She suggested that I do not walk near her if that's the way I'm going look like after 62.

At that time male artists with long hair were also not allowed to appear on television. Hence I did not get to watch any of my pop idols (the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Hollies, etc.) on TV then. Teenagers of today of course could watch all their favourite artists perform not only on television but also on the internet - how privileged!

Songs that were allegedly referring to the use of drugs were also not allowed to be aired on TV or radio. Some were actually replaced on albums that were sold in Singapore. At that time I wanted to purchase what is arguably the most influential album in the history of popular music - the Beatles' "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band" but decided not to because a few tracks including "Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds", "With A Little Help from My Friend" and "A Day in the Life" (if I remembered correctly) were substituted with songs from other Beatles albums. Finally I asked a college friend of mine from Batu Pahat, CS Kuo (he is now a doctor residing in Sydney), to get a copy of the ‘unadulterated’ album when he goes back to his hometown for the holidays. I agreed to still pay him in the event that the album was confiscated at the causeway checkpoint. Of course the latter did not happen and I still have the album today. The ban was eventually lifted - not sure when though. By the way the BBC also banned a couple of the songs from this album from airplay. The Beatles White Album also has at least one song - "Happiness is a Warm Gun" - substituted in the Singapore version but I bought it much later when the ban was lifted. This song was also banned by the BBC in UK.

Many of us were not happy that as teenage boys we were not allowed to keep our hair long. We would also have loved to be able to watch our favourite artists appear on TV. However being a parent now I do understand the paternalistic concerns one has (especially being Asians) to the dangers that the young might be exposed to. And if we were to look at the drug addiction problems some nearby countries have with their youth we can now say that our government may have done the right thing at that given period in time although some might argue that we were over cautious at times - but then it’s better to be safe than sorry.

Wow, there is still so much to talk about regarding life as a teenager in early Singapore but will have to leave them for subsequent postings.

Winter Sonata Island - Nami Island

2009-12-05T19:15:00.012+08:00

Boys Over Flowers (earlier post - "Boys Over Muju Resort") won the most popular drama category in the Seoul Drama Awards 2009 and its male leads, members of F4, have now become the heart-throbs of thousands of teenage girls all over East and South-East Asia. So it's no wonder that Lee Min-ho's (이민호) public appearance in Singapore to officiate at a store's opening in October had to be cancelled due to crowd control issues. But at the start of the "K-drama" invasion , at the beginning of this decade, the cast of the Korean F4 were still in school. Who then was the Korean drama lead that stole the many thousands fluttering hearts of ladies (the mothers, aunties or elder sisters of to-day's die-hard and ardent fans of the Korean F4)? - none other than BYJ!

Bae Yong Joon (배용준)(BYJ) became the darling of thousands of ladies after the launch of the TV drama, Winter Sonata (겨울연가) in 2002. This TV serial was so popular that 80% of Japan was watching it at its peak and very soon the fever spread to the whole of East and Southeast Asia. This was indeed a phenomenon, something that no one could have dreamt of because prior to the onslaught of the Korean wave, Japan was then the nation that was casting great influence through the export of her J-pop and J-culture to many of the countries in the region.

Well who could have dared imagine that one day thousands of Japanese housewives would idolise a Korean artist when Japan was actually the dominant power that was exerting her control and influence over the Korean way of life during the earlier part of the twentieth century (Korea was under Japanese rule from mid-1910 to mid-1945). I still can recall seeing, some years back, many Japanese K-fans browsing over pin-ups of Bae Yong Joon in the souvenir stalls at the traditional Nakamise shopping arcade that line the path towards the Sensoji Temple in the Asakusa district of Tokyo.

The success of Winter Sonata can be attributed to the many ingredients that went into the making of this delicious Korean "cake" - a beautiful and very touching love storyline that boast a handsome hero and his pretty damsel (Choi Ji-woo (최지우)); good acting from a charming cast; melancholic yet romantic music; soothing tunes with sentimental lyrics. And to top it all up, the "icing" - a breathtaking winter scenery that servers as the romantic backdrop for numerous of the memorable and touching scenes. The location that provided this "topping" is Nami Island (남이섬).

Namiseom is an island located on top of the Cheongpyeong Lake. It was formed with the completion of the Cheongpyeong Dam in 1943. It has an area of 460,000 m² and is about one and a half hours' drive (63 km) from Seoul. It was named after General Nami (1441-1469) who was promoted after suppressing a riot but denounced and executed as a traitor subsequently.

We boarded the ferry for the trip (which took less than 30 minutes) from Gapyeong Wharf, disembarked at Nami Island Wharf and walked through the white arch gateway that leads to the Central White Pine Tree Lane, passing the tomb of General Nami
on the left. Along here is where you will find numerous exhibition halls.

This lushly green island boast a wide collection of trees and plants; offering animals like deer, squirrels, rabbits, ostriches and birds a pristine sanctuary. In the case of man he not only enjoys a serene, clean, green and fresh environment but he has also available to him facilities for recreation and relaxation, including, among others, a bike center, swimming pool, electric car tour and pleasure boats.

This placed used to be visited mainly by locals before Winter Sonata. But after the spread of the "WS fever" the island has become a target of invasion by thousands
of tourists from East and Southeast Asia. If you refer to the Nami Island Tour Guide's map of the island you can follow the trails of Winter Sonata as the main filming locations are clearly marked on it using little red hearts, while posters, statutes, etc. are used to pinpoint the actual locations on the physical path. Well which ardent Winter Sonata fan could resist the temptation of having a photograph taken at each of these memorable spots on this romantic island. One of the most popular scenic spot for such an undertaking is the one with the island's Metasequoia path (a forest path surrounded by white birches and Korean white pines) as the background (seen in the above right photo). And I am very certain that when you are here you will take one such shot for the album.

Will be leaving for Hokkaido in less than a week's time so my next posting will most probably be around Christmas. Meanwhile here's wishing one and all a Merry X'mas.

[ Thank you to auntie Poh Choo for the photo of BYJ taken during a visit of his to Singapore ]

Boys Over Muju Resort

2009-12-03T19:27:00.013+08:00

The Korean Drama "Boys Over Flowers" (Kgotboda Namja - 꽃보다 남자) was on TV a couple of months ago when I happened to catch a glimpse of an episode with some members of the cast in a hotel within a ski resort. That's when it hit me that the place looked very familiar ... eh? ... I was actually there last year. The place is the Muju Resort - a very beautiful, european-styled resort. The hotel is the 5-star Hotel Tirol.

Being there makes you think you're in some little european village in the Alps even though you are actually in South Korea. This is one awesome place. If its not because of seeing it on TV again I could well have put it away at the back of my mind. That's when I decided that I should start a little corner in cyber space to keep a record of pleasant memories. At the same time I hope to share them with those who drop by. Hopefully while here visitors could find something that is informative, interesting and useful. As I pen my thoughts and feelings in this little cyber hideaway do note that certain views and ideas expressed are based purely on personal opinions and preferences. The reader is of course free to disagree.

Muju Resort, lying about 188 km southeast of Seoul, spreads over 1,700 acres of nature as part of the Deogyo National Park. As well as skiing in the winter, it offers leisure activities throughout the year whereby guests can enjoy a gondola ride to the beautiful peak of Deogyusan Mountain, tee-off on an Arnold Palmer designed 18-hole wildlife golf course, or relax in the resort's outdoor hot springs.

I have stayed in many hotels during my visits to various countries over the years but up till now only one has left a deep, strong and lasting impression on me - Hotel Tirol. Tirol is the name of one of Austria's nine states, located in Western Austria. The beauty and warmth of this hotel is very evident through the unique Austrian atmosphere created by its authentic Austrian architecture. The superb interior encompasses you with cosiness as it bathed in the warmth of romantic and gentle lightings.

As you walk through the front doors you will be "greeted" by an imperial staircase with the hotel's name prominently displayed across the facing wall. As you capture the beauty of the place with your cameras do remember to take some snapshots with this stairway as the backdrop.

Each and every room at Hotel Tirol is adorned with Italian tiles, authentic furniture and panels made from the Austrian larch tree, so when you enter your room you will immediately smell the fine scent of an Austrian forest. This is supposed to give one a natural therapy similar to taking a walk through the alpine woods. No wonder it seems that MJ, the King of Pop himself, was interested in buying over the place during his visit here.

You must take a night walk through the picturesque europrean styled buildings around Hotel Tirol. You will get the serene feeling that you are strolling along some little european village in the Alps. Better still, why not enjoy an ice cream cone as you do your walkabout - especially if its a freezing cold night - only for those who are masochists!

And of course don't forget to bring your cameras as there are many cute and cosy little spots for some memorable snapshots.

The ski area is just a stone throw away from the hotel. We were at the resort on the last day of the ski season as such the crowd was not there and we did not really get to frolic in the snow. The ski/snowboard slopes were empty. What was on the ground was more like crust or wet granular snow. The timing was wrong.

Those who watched the 12th episode of "Boys Over Flowers" will of course know that at the right period in time the snow-filled slopes actually looked gorgeous as white backdrops for the hundreds of colourfully outfitted fun seekers.

Would love to return to this beautiful wonderland but this time round must make sure it would be during the peak of the skiing season. This is a place that one could come back to whenever there is a need to de-stress and relax. And if after a while of lazing around makes you bored then there are numerous leisure activities available in the resort to keep you occupied.

For those who are not familiar with "Kgotboda Namja (Boys Over Flowers)" - its a Korean drama adaptation of the Japanese manga "Hana Yori Dango" - the title is a pun on the Japanese old saying 'dumplings over flowers' referring to people who attend the Hanami (flower festival), but instead of enjoying flowers, focus more on the materialistic side of the event such as getting food and buying souvenirs. This is the third television drama adaptation of the popular Japanese manga after the success of both the Taiwanese (Meteor Garden - Liúxing Huayuán) and Japanese versions. You can read more about it - here.

Korean dramas have become very popular throughout Asia in recent years and have contributed to the general phenomenon of the Korean Wave that is exporting Korean culture throughout the region. This Korean Fever began with the export of Korean TV dramas such as "Autumn Fairy Tale", "Winter Sonata", "Stairways To Heaven" and "Dae Jang Geum" (Jewel in the Palace). This was followed closely by Korean movies, popular music, food and language (even my auntie Poh Choo is taking Korean lessons with her housewives friends).

The success of South Korean dramas, movies, and pop music has become a drawing force for South Korea; attracting thousands of tourists from countries in East and Southeast Asia - such as Japan, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Thailand, the Philippines, Singapore, Indonesia and Vietnam. Filming locations of popular Television dramas have now become "must visit" destinations in the travel itineraries of these 'fan-tourists'. I hope to write about Nami Island, the romantic setting for "Winter Sonata" in my next posting. So do drop by again in the coming week ...